new Things I Ate in Cambodia: lousiana
Showing posts with label lousiana. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lousiana. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

St James Cheese Company: THE REVENGE (of good sandwiches)

St James Cheese Company
5004 Prytania St
New Orleans, LA 70115
(504) 899-4737




So my trip to New Orleans turned into Greatest Sandwiches Tour: 2011. I don't exactly mind. After all, this is the city of Great Sandwiches, or at least one of the greatest sandwich cities on the planet.

A great place to eat a great sandwich is St James Cheese Company, New Orleans's beloved neighborhood cheese shop. I used to live right up from St James, on St Charles, and it was awfully convenient. They do cheese-and-wine special dinners on a regular basis and I'd head up to those with friends sometimes.

St James isn't just a restuarant,after all - it's also a Cheese Education Center of sorts, and the staff will answer esoteric questions about the origin and provenance of any given dairy product. There's other stuff on offer as well - artisan pickles, deli meats, cheese boards and other speciality kitchen equipment, Mexican chocolate, all manner of preserves, and a lot of other items that could conceivably go nicely with cheese. It's all twee enough to belong in the Bay Area, I'm not gonna lie, but it's also a damn good cheese shop. They did a plate for my graduation dinner and it was a big hit. A certain professor of mine likes picking up one of their big catering samplers with cheese and bread and bring it to the last day of glass, outside on the lawn. It's probably an effort to get awesome performance review sheets.

They have a order-at-the-counter cafe that enjoys extremely popularity among society types in New Orleans, as well as a smattering of hipsters with incomes (well, it's true), and people like myself and my friends going out for an occasional splurge. The menu is sandwiches, cheese and charcuterie boards, and salads, and they'll slap a cheese on a plate for you with a knife and some bread if you find one you like behind the counter. It's a simple affair, and pleasantly so. Sometimes they take a bit. One wonders how long it takes to assemble a cheese plate.



There's a dreadful lack of avocados in Cambodia, and I ate a hell of a lot of avocado back in the USA. The Beecher's Cheddar sandwich ($8.95) is my favorite here, mainly because it's got avocado, turkey, some good sharp cheddar, tomato, and a little bit of basil, all on chewy ciabatta. Get them to melt that sucker for you, and you'll be in heaven.

We also got a free cheese plate - they do that kind of thing - and that's one of the best things to order here. ($10.50 for 3 cheeses, $16.50 for five). A selection of good cheeses dependant upon what the stafff feels like feeding you that day, and they'll explain it to you when you bring it out. On a recent visit, we sampled some fantastic goat cheese rolled in cracked black pepper, some gouda, a couple of interesting sheep's milk cheeses and a couple other selections (yeah, should have kept notes). They switch up the accompaniments from fig jam to blueberry jam to walnuts to whatever is on tap that day, which keeps it interesting. It's a cultural experience and it's also eating cheese. They've been doing a cheese-and-chocolate plate of late to be different and that sounds entirely promising.

The salads are pretty great as well. I especially like the manchego with pear, Spanish almonds, and quince dressing ($9.50) mostly because it reminds me of having breakfast in Spain, assembled into a single entity over some greens. (And pears are great. As my friend Kelsey observed, "The closest thing the fruit world has to candy. That's why I actually like them). The parmesan reggiano salad with salami, artichoke hearts, and olives is also formidable, though be careful because those son-bitches have pits.

They've got wine and a lot of different kinds of artisan beers, since this is New Orleans, and there must be libations. It's a nice way to pass a hot afternoon, killing a bottle of white and eating an inordinate amount of cheese. I suggest it.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Ye Olde College Inn: Updated Pub Grub?

Ye Olde College Inn
3000 South Carrollton Avenue
New Orleans, LA
70118-4304
(504) 866-3683

The Olde College Inn really is pretty old, or at least its original, pre-Katrina incarnation was. Started in 1933 as a barbecue joint, the shack on South Carrollton soon became a beloved neighborhood restaurant, serving up mountainous piles of onion rings, crawfish boils when the season was right, and copious amounts of cheap beer. Katrina wiped out the old restaurant, but a hurricane wasn't enough to dissuade new owner John Blancher. A new building was defiantly raised right next door to the old site, and ever so conveniently situated next door to the beloved Rock N' Bowl. The restaurant opened soft with a plain old po-boy menu and quickly graduated to a full service and surprisingly refined eatery.

The restaurant's name may be folksy and twee - after all, any place that spells "old" with an "e" is instantly highly suspect. The restaurant itself, surprisingly enough, is not. Inside, it's all exposed wood, nice paintings, dim light and tablecloths, although the weathered bar features enough television sets continuously looping football to keep the sports fans somewhat content.

The College Inn's management decided to take a turn for the up-market when they relaunched the restaurant, and that's reflected in the menu, made up of updated versions of good old New Orleans classic. The restaurant's owners, stuck in the position of maintaining beloved old dishes or face riot from committed and long term patrons, have put stuff like grilled Mahi-Mahi with lobster beurre blanc right next door to a veal chop with gravy and a selection of "gourmet" po-boys. New Orleans natives will understand that this is an act of rather profound bravery in an old hat local institution.
















I sampled the special shrimp and okra gumbo. This was a pretty serviceable gumbo, with a nice thick texture, a good amount of okra and shrimp, and a funky, dark roux. It was a bit greasy, although I tend to find that not-much-of-a-problem when addressing a nice gumbo. Needed some hot sauce but they had that at table.



















The onion rings came in a pretty stack
. This was not to the liking of one of my dinner companions, who had been coming to the College Inn with his family for as long as he could remember. "They used to come in a big basket, and they gave you a ton of em'," he said. "None of this vertical crap. My mom would be horrified."

Well, there you have it. They were pretty good, though - light and airy batter, not too much of it.


















I also tried the crawfish and shrimp salad with what was billed as a remoulade sauce, though it tasted pretty much like a good home-made ranch dressing to me. The chunky cucumber was not, I think, the wisest choice to accompany tender bits of crawfish and shellfish - I say cut it up finer.

The consensus around the table? The Olde College Inn was better back when it stuck to pub grub, and the skimpy onion ring serving - pretty or not - is just about an abomination before the lord. However, I'd like to come and try some other stuff off the menu in the near future. They're said to have a fine hamburger on a Leidenheimer bun, and the breaded veal chop is generally considered a local classic.

Ye Olde College Inn is facing a rather interesting dilemma: upgrading the menu a bit in a town that adheres to food traditions in a limpet-like fashion, without angering the natives too much. Judging from the hopping business the Inn was doing, however, the approach seems to be working out. Music and bowling fans and people who are mad enough to enjoy doing both *at the same time* will be happy to know that the Rock and Bowl and the College Inn are connected establishments. Every entree purchased at the College Inn gets you 5 bucks off admission to the Bowl. Deal.

- F.G